Black Tie Dress Code - What Does It Mean?

Alright, here's the situation. You've been invited to a formal event, and you're told the dress code is black tie. You have no idea what that means. Relax. I'm going to show you piece by piece what the traditional black tie dress code is.

You might be surprised at the number or rules for black tie dress. Some people just assume it means wearing a suit and throwing on a black tie. This is wrong, and these people will look like fools if all the other men at the event understood what black tie means. They might as well wear jean shorts and a Budweiser t-shirt, because that's how out of place they'll look.

Even if they event you're attending is not going to have people who are that strict about black tie dress code, it's still better to play it safe and use a traditional definition. It's better to overdress than underdress. 

The jacket should be made of wool, and it should be either black or midnight blue. You'll generally only see single-breasted jackets, but double-breasted is making a comeback and it is also acceptable.

The lapels should be peaked (not notched) and should have a shawl collar. The facing of the lapel should be either grosgrain or satin. 

The jacket should not be vented, which is something that is rather uncommon among suit jackets. Also uncommon is the flapless pockets that should be found on a black tie jacket.

Although one button jackets were the norm, it is now acceptable to wear a two button jacket. Remember the rule that only the top button should be buttoned, and not while sitting unless you're wearing a double-breasted jacket.  

The pants are going to be hard to find separate from the jacket in a matching material, so you should probably buy them together. Also, black tie pants have specific features which make them rare as separates.

For one, trousers should have a braid along the outer seam that matches the lapel of the jacket. They should be uncuffed at the bottom and they should have be cut for use with suspenders, not for a belt. That means no belt loops and the pants should be sized to fit around the waist, not slung around the hips. This is one of the most common mistakes people make with black tie dress.  

Although some men will wear cummerbunds, I recommend wearing a black evening waistcoat instead. It should be low cut and cover the top of your pants. You can skip this if you're wearing a double-breasted jacket. Also, it is fine if you don't wear any waist covering, it just tends to add more formality and style to your outfit.  

For a dress shirt, you should get one that's white and has french cuffs. This means you'll also need cufflinks. Find some that are silver or black and subtle.

I prefer a pleated shirt with eyelets for studs, which is commonly referred to as a "tuxedo shirt". Go with a turndown collar instead of a wing collar.  

For socks, go with black silk socks that go over the calf.

For shoes, look for patent leather shoes (in black, of course). You can also use black leather pumps or oxfords, but you need to polish them... a lot. Shine them till you can see your face in them.  

Find some white or black silk suspenders. Also, use a white pocket square. Fold it properly. Google "how to fold a pocket square" for further instructions. For the studs in the shirt, I prefer black, but mother of pearl works as well.